Meet Johanna, the designer behind Sew Love Patterns, a London based pattern design house.
Untitled Thoughts
Meet Brittani, the designer behind Untitled Thoughts.
Untitled Thoughts has gone through many changes since its inception. ''Untitled Thoughts'' was actually the name of my fashion collection during my final year of college. Since then, Untitled Thoughts evolved from a ready-to-wear line made up entirely of upcycled materials and custom garments to a bespoke wedding brand and now an indie pattern business! I love that my brand has grown and changed as I have grown and changed. Untitled Thoughts is a reflection of me!
Currently, I am focused on creating sustainably-minded patterns. Sustainability and environmental activism are a big part of my life, and I want Untitled Thoughts to reflect these values. I took a break from releasing any new patterns in 2021 to shift to creating 100% zero waste patterns (or get really really close to that goal!). It's an ambitious goal, especially as I haven't seen many vintage inspired, frolicking-through-a-meadow-esque patterns that also happen to be zero waste. But I do think it is possible! How cool would it be to create garments that use up every little scrap while still remaining true to that aesthetic?
This shift really ties in with my passion for the environment. I have become increasingly interested in soil-to-skin projects in which you can trace a garment all the way back to its inception; right from the seed that was planted to grow the fibers that are inevitably woven into the cloth used to create a garment. And then ending that cycle back at the soil level, replenishing the soil for the next generation of fibers to be woven and worn.
“I started designing patterns after meeting the community.”
I was actually working at an indie fabric shop (Topstitch Studio and Lounge) when I was introduced to the online sewing community. I hadn't even realized such a community existed! OR that one could be an indie pattern designer! A whole new world that opened up to me and I completely fell down the rabbit hole.
I started experimenting with pattern design using patterns I had drafted for my ready-to-wear collections and trying to adapt them into sewing patterns. Through that process, I realized that pattern making utilized a variety of skills I had picked up over the years and I loved the diversity. I get bored easily, and with pattern making I could readily jump between tasks whenever I was feeling distracted and still make progress.
I dabbled in patterning 12-18 months before I realized this was something I really wanted to do. Then it was another 6 months before I officially launched my business in January 2020! Then another 5 months before I went full time and focused all of my energy on Untitled Thoughts. I had actually just put in my notice at my job right before COVID really hit the US and everything shut down.
Favourite stores
There are so many, it's hard to choose! I haven't purchased any fabrics this year as I am really determined to work with only materials I currently have on hand. However, there are a few stores with a strong environmental stance that I hope to purchase from in the near future. Being really interested in soil-to-skin-to-soil, it's important to me that the fabrics I purchase going forward are ethically sourced, organic certified, have a low carbon footprint, and use environmentally friendly dyes. That's a really tall order which is why I haven't purchased anything this year.
The following shops are ones that align with one or more of these ideals:
- Organic Cotton Plus
- Bawn textiles
- Winnipeg Sews
- Sitka Fabrics
- Simplifi Fabrics
- Maker's Fabric
- Nature's Fabric
I am also inspired by the work being done by so many designers out there! Some of my favorites include Friday Pattern Company (who was actually the first pattern company I ever got to test a pattern for!), Helen's Closet, Elbe Textiles, Fiber and Cloth Studio, Holly McQuillan, Bayron Handmade... the list could go on forever!
Being a pattern designer - behind the scenes
Favourite part: The variety of my day-to-day! There are so many aspects of developing patterns with so many moving parts that no two days are exactly the same, which keeps things really exciting and fun! Oh, and probably all the math. I know that probably sounds strange, but I get a lot of satisfaction seeing math add up in patterns – it's awesome!
I absolutely love seeing different interpretations and pattern hacks and fabric choices for Untitled Thoughts’ patterns. It's something I felt was really missing from my ready-to-wear line. I didn't enjoy how limiting sewing up samples could be. With sewing patterns, each sewist can craft a one-of-a-kind garment that is absolutely perfect for them, from the fabric to the fit! Seeing my patterns in the world is truly the best feeling!
Hardest part: there can be a lot of difficult moments when running a pattern business. In the beginning, the most challenging aspect of patterning was just putting my ideas out there and opening myself up to criticism. It's scary! I remember the first few testing rounds, I would be too scared to open up my email for fear of someone messaging me to tell me how horrible my designs were, or that my instructions were terrible or something. I've gotten a lot better at taking on criticism though. And no one has ever actually said anything that negative!.
Now the hardest part of running the business is my latest venture into zero waste. It's incredibly tricky and mind boggling, but I am really loving the challenge!
Brittani’s favourite pattern from the Untitled Thought collection
Fleur Pinafore! You can buy the Fleur Pinafore pattern here.
Not only does it have my favorite name (Fleur which is French for Flower and reminds me of Fleur de Lis of New Orleans where I am from), it also is the closest pattern to being zero waste of my current collection! Plus, I find it the most well-wearing of all the garments, especially for my lifestyle. I spend a lot of time outside in the garden. I just love wearing my pinafore out to dig in the dirt and pick veggies. The large pockets are perfect for stashing away the odd tomato or pepper or even armfuls of potatoes!
Check out Untitled Thought’s complete collection here.
Looking to the future
I am excited to see all of the new voices joining in the pattern making world! There can never be too many voices and perspectives when it comes to patterning. I hope to see more people from all over the world become patternmakers, designers, and sewists! Different perspectives make this craft so beautiful, diverse, and magical!