Birgitta Helmersson

Meet Birgitta Helmersson, a Swedish designer focussing on making zero waste patterns.

Pattern: Birgitta Helmersson Zero Waste Gather Tee

I worked in the fashion industry for 10-12 years mostly working as a designer and a pattern maker. However during my time in the industry, I noticed how wasteful the fashion industry was, specifically how many offcuts we were producing. This is what inspired me to start my own brand (Birgitta Helmersson Patterns) back in 2013 while I was living in Melbourne, Australia. I’ve since relocated to Sweden and have used my brand to explore making zero waste patterns and minimising wastefulness in fashion.

Zero waste patterns are exactly what they sound like, patterns that leave behind zero waste during the cutting and sewing process. This can feel very different compared to more traditional sewing/cutting practices. There’s much more attention and care to the dimensions of the fabric bolt and how the pattern pieces are going to end up. There’s also a lot more going back and making adjustments to a design to optimise the amount of fabric needed. It can almost feel like a puzzle in a way.

From Idea to Final Design

I find it difficult to say where the inspirations for designs came from as I find the inspiration comes along during the process of making something. But, typically I’ll usually start with one of the shapes from our library. For me, I find it’s always about the silhouette and I’ll always have an idea of the shape of the design.

From there I’ll start to sketch in my book design ideas that could work with the shapes and fabric I’m using. While sketching, I’ll always have the pattern pieces laid out on the fabric while I’m sketching patterns so I can see what I can fit within the area of the fabric I’m working with. So, in this way I’m usually coming up with the sketch of the design while coming up with the pattern. After I’ve drawn out everything manually, I digitise everything using Illustrator. Although for curved pieces or designs that need a little more extra detail, I’ll draw them out my hand and then scan so I can later digitise them.

When coming up with new designs, I like to not overcomplicate things. It can be difficult doing this with a zero waste pattern if you have an idea that’s rooted in a more traditional pattern, which adds little intricate details that you have to figure out how to make work. This is why I like to keep my designs minimal. However, I would not call them simple. A more fitting description would be efficient. I also try to keep my designs timeless. I try to stay away from current fashions trends and focus on something that can remain fashionable for many years to come. My pieces can turn out to be a bit oversized as well, but I personally enjoy this aesthetic. Many people seem to think that the oversize fit is a result of a zero waste pattern but that’s actually a misconception.

Being a Pattern Designer/Running a Business (Behind the Scenes)

Favourite Parts: I definitely love the flexibility that comes along with being a small business. I love that I am able to choose how long I work for and being able to leave early. Especially now that I have kids. Also the ability to change course quickly. I’m allowed to move on to other things without having to go through anybody and I’m allowed to experiment and try new things. I get to express my creativity as well as my more entrepreneurial side!

Least Favourite Parts: I find that it can be tough navigating a business around something you are passionate about. I found now that designing patterns is how I make my living, it changed my relationship with the craft. It can feel more like a job and less like a hobby and I’ve had on and off struggles with this feeling. Also just simply cash flow. Being unsure of how the month will turn out financially can be stressful sometimes.

Birgitta’s Favourite Design

I’m very proud of the zero waste block pants. Pants and trousers can be really difficult to make with zero waste. But I managed to find a way to make it work. Not only that, but I’ve managed to make it in ten different sizes without having to make compromises to the design. It took me a while to come up with, but it all ended up coming together in a simple and intuitive way. I also really enjoy the zero waste gather dress. I just love the shape of it and the oversized aesthetic. It’s one of the first patterns I made and it’s still a best seller to this day!

Favourite fabric stores

I love Merchant and Mills, in the UK. They have really beautiful linen and just a beautiful selection of fabrics. 

I also really like Lebenskleidung, in Germany. They have a fantastic selection of organic cotton and different fabrics in really beautiful colours. 

I also recommend Siulas (retail customers can purchase through linenfashion.com). This is a very old linen mill based in Lithuania and they have a really beautiful selection. We have been using them for a long time and the quality is excellent.

Looking to the Future

I am looking forward to exploring other avenues with this business. We’ve been working on collecting vintage fabrics and repurposing them for sewing kits that are going to be made available. I am also looking into doing some sewing fairs and workshops. In general, I’m just excited to be exploring new ideas, something that I always seem to be doing. However, I am happy with where we are at the moment. I’ve actually been enjoying just  living day to day.

Advice for designers looking to start their own business

Any designers looking to start their own business, I urge you to do your own research first. There’s a lot of new and different things popping up all the time. It’s important to see where you lie within the stuff that already exists but also to find sets you apart from everything else. But also don’t be afraid to try your best as well. Don’t be put off by something because it seems difficult. Just go for it! I also found that putting up boundaries was helpful for me. They can feel like restrictions in the beginning, but I found I’ve become more creative from it. For me, it was choosing to only work with natural fibres and sometimes second hand fabrics and avoiding synthetic fibres. As well as our manufacturing process with zero waste. But these boundaries can act like a sort of guideline that help you make sure you are doing your best within your means.